Pálffy Manor
Pálffy Manor in Svätý Jur
Pálffy Manor
VIAJUR viticulture and winemaking
Pálffy Manor
Internet shop and wine distribution

Dining consists of several elements and the overall impression of the guest is created by the collaboration of the kitchen and the service, says Davide Macaluso, who flew to Slovakia together with Enrico Bartolini in November. Davide heads the food & beverage department at one of Enrico's trattorias in Tuscany, where he is also head sommelier. For him, work is a passion to which he has adapted his whole life. But how does he evaluate Slovak gastronomy, which is still without a Michelin star?

  • We learned about you that you graduated from college in computer science, but now you are a sommelier. When did you become so interested in wine that you said "I'm going to dedicate my life to it"?  

Yes, I studied computer science, but my passion for wine led me to this beautiful work. When I finished my studies in computer science, I moved to the mountains, to Cervinia, which is close to the French border. It all started at a dinner with friends. I was 18 years old at the time and I was working as a lifeguard. One evening I found myself at a dinner with several winemakers and the world of wine enchanted me. I consider myself a lucky person because I do the most beautiful job in the world. Wine, like food, is a universal calling card that brings people together.

  • What is the most challenging part of your job? For example, can it be combined with family life?

My work was born out of passion. It requires a lot of effort and sometimes you have to be able to compromise.

  • Many people ask themselves, where did you meet Michelin chef Enrico Bartolini?
  • It was exactly in 2006 during the Winter Olympics in Turin. There was already a lot of talk about it then. I had dinner at his restaurant in the province of Pavia once and fell in love with his cuisine. We have been in touch ever since. I finally had the honour of working with him. 
  • That's why you are currently working in Tuscany, specifically at the L'Andana - Tenuta La Badiola resort, where Enrico Bartolini's Trattoria* is also located. What does your typical working day look like and what is the philosophy behind this resort?
  • L'Andana is an experiential resort. With these simple words you can describe this concept in the countryside by the sea. There you can relax, experience unique moments and find yourself. There are several restaurant areas in the resort. In the morning, we start by serving breakfast. It is an important moment during which we want to pamper our guests. Throughout the day, I do various activities such as cooking classes and wine seminars. The day ends with the serving of dinner. At Trattoria Enrico Bartolini we present our vision of food and cuisine, as is traditional in Tuscany, accompanied by a glass of wine.
  • You spent several days in Slovakia. You visited Bratislava and later Tatranská Lomnica, where you tasted some of the food. How do you assess the gastronomic scene in Slovakia in terms of winning a Michelin star in the future?
  • As soon as I arrived in Bratislava, I felt the wonderful energy of the city. Lots of young talent and a desire to pass it on. Dinner at the Selaví restaurant in Bratislava was full of new flavours and modernity. For example, compared to the Czech Republic, where there are Michelin star restaurants, I know Prague quite well. I was there for the first time in 1997 and I went back in 2011. I had the same feeling as I had there in Bratislava. I think the Michelin star will come if you persevere. 
  • However, you did not miss a visit to the ViaJur winery in Svätý Jur, which is located in the Pálffy Manor. You also tasted some wines. Did you find your favourites there?
  • I visited the ViaJur winery in person and discovered unexpected things, such as the underground tunnel. We tasted very interesting regional white wines such as Müller and Riesling.
  • What impressions did Hotel Lomnica leave in you?

In Hotel Lomnica I met wonderful people, professionals who made me feel at home immediately. The attention the hotel pays to gastronomy is obvious. You can see that they want to present the best that the region has to offer. The team at Hotel Lomnica is made up of young people who have the right spirit and curiosity to discover. I can't wait to visit them again and see the progress they have made over time. They have a very smart restaurant manager, Peter, who will make them a perfect team. 

  • Give our readers some tips for great gastronomy or wineries in Italy.

I live in Tuscany, where there is a plethora of restaurants with regional cuisine. Personally, I love the cuisine of my close friend, from whom I learned a lot, Vito Mollica at the Four Seasons. I love history in wine, and the Mazzei winery and its wines are one example of the historic and Tuscan that can be tasted and admired. I also really like Montalcino, but my favourite remains the Marroneto from the Castiglione del Bosco winery.

  • What about your favourite foods and wines?  

Florentine steak (bistecca alla fiorentina) and well-prepared spaghetti with tomatoes. I like to drink wine from the region where I come from, Vermentino from the Cantine Lunae winery.

  • If someone from the younger generation wanted to become a successful sommelier, what would you recommend?

You have to be curious, visit wineries, regions, discover stories and above all taste a lot. 

 

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